Author Archives: Vivian Boroff

Cook This Now – Irish Soda Bread

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Years ago I used to work for a small college in Oklahoma City. Once a year during finals week, the faculty and staff would get together and cook a special late night meal for the students. Midnight Breakfast became a favorite event for the students, providing them with a little break during their studies, as well as giving them them the opportunity to see another side of the staff and faculty. I usually manned the pancake station, flipping as many as I possibly could throughout the night, before sitting down to enjoy some time with the students.

 

On one evening I managed to spend a little time with a young lady who was a foreign exchange student from Japan named Satoko. She was interested in learning about food and cooking, and asked for a little advice. I thought about it for a minute and remembered something that a chef once told me. “Buy the freshest ingredients you can get, and do as little to them as possible.” She just looked at me and smiled.

I have enjoyed so many of Melissa Clark’s books. With more than 25 books under her belt and her ever popular New York Times Dining Section column “A Good Appetite”, Melissa is definitely a well seasoned writer.

In Cook This Now Melissa’s appreciation for fresh seasonal ingredients, and her simple approach to how they shoud be prepared, reminded me of that advice I once passed on to a student. The book is divided by seasons and the months within, and the recipes are simple and delicious. The techniques she uses are simple and approachable for even a novice cook, and the flavors and ingredients she uses will delight those with a more experienced palate. Melissa gives great tips and advice throughout this book, which is a reflection of how she cooks at home. Every recipe comes with with an alternative, a “What else?” at the end, listing alternative ingredients you can use as a subsititute, or to  add a twist and change it up a bit, giving you endless possibilities with 120 recipes within.

With St. Patrick’s Day approaching I thought I would bake the Irish Soda Bread. This is probably one of the easiest breads I have ever baked. Lightly sweet and studded with raisins and caraway seeds, this no knead bread requires absolutely no rising time, and is absolutely delicious. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

 

IRISH SODA BREAD

Ingredients:

2 cups whole wheat pastry flour

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/3 cup sugar

1 Tablespoon baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 cup plain whole milk yogurt (I used the what else option an subsituted with sour cream)

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

1 1/2 cup raisins

1 Tablespoon caraway seeds

Directions:

1. Preheat the to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease a 10 inch round cake pan.

2. In a large bowl combine the flours, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. In a separate bowl, whisk together the yogurt, eggs, and 2 tablespoons of the melted butter. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry until just combined, taking care to not overmix. Fold in the raisins and caraway seeds.

3. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Shape the dough into a round about 7 inches in diameter (it will spread to about 10 inches in diameter) and place it on the prepared cake pan. Using a paring knife, score the round with a cross and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of melted butter. Bake until golden brown, 45 to minutes. Serve warm if possible or toast slices before serving.

 

Tart Love – Winesap Apple & Walnut “Wow” Tart

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This lovely book by Holly Herrick brought back a flood of memories from my teens. My mother is a wonderful cook, as was my grandmother, but neither of the two could bake. I had never even tasted a tart until my first trip to New Orleans as a teenager, with a group of students from my high school while dining at a sidewalk cafe. We were served small savory tarts filled with cheese and topped with carmelized onions. I think it was that trip that spawned my love for all things pastry (especially tarts).

Holly’s book Tart Love Sassy, Savory and Sweet is everything the title describes. It is filled with stories of what inspired her to become a pastry chef, and the people who inspired her along the way. Holly has included recipes for tarts and tartlets, both savory and sweet, as well as savory pies, pot pies, quiches and pockets.

There are so many delicious recipes throughout this charming and wonderfully photographed book. For this review I decided to make the Winesap Apple & Walnut Tart. Winesap apples are a tart but slightlysweet heritage apple. If you cannot find them you can also use granny smiths or macintosh. What really got my attention is the candied walnut filling which goes so with the apples. With Valentines Day just around the corner I thought this would be so pretty using my heart shaped tart pan. Enjoy!

WINESAP APPLE & WALNUT “WOW” TART

Equipment Needed:

One 12 x 1 inch round tart pan

1 recipe Master Sweet Pastry Dough (follows)

1 egg wash (yolk, a splash of water, pinch of salt blended together)

CANDIED WALNUT FILLING:

3 Tablespoons unsalted butter

2 1/2 cups finely chopped walnuts

1/4 cup light brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Generous pinch of kosher or sea salt

APPLE FILLING:

6 large winesap apples (you can substitute granny smith or macintosh)

Juice of 1 lemon

3 Tablespoons butter, melted

1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 Tablespoon ground ginger

Generous pinch of salt

1/4 cup light brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

GLAZE:

3 Tablespoons apricot jelly mixed with 1 Tablespoon of water

DIRECTIONS:

Prepare the Master Sweet Pastry (recipe follows) then let it rest for at least 30 minutes or overnight before rolling it out.  On a lightly floured surface roll out the dough into a round of 1/4 inch thickness. Gently roll the pastry onto your pin and lift it on to your tart pan, lining the pan with your pastry. Roll the pin over the top of the tart pan, this will trim off any excess dough and create a flush tart border. Refrigerate the tart shell for 20 minutes (this will prevent shrinkage).

 

Pre-heat oven to 376 degrees F. Brush the prepared pastry shell with the egg wash, gently covering the bottom, sides and pastry top. Refrigerate briefly.

Prepare the candied walnut filling by heating the butter  over medium high heat until melted and bubbly. Add the nuts, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt all at once, Toss to coat and continue cooking until lightly browned. Remove from heat and turn out onto to a large plate. Refrigerate to completely chill.

Meanwhile prepare the apple filling. Peel and thinly slice the apples. Toss the apple slices in lemon juice in a large bowl as you go along to prevent discoloration. After the all the apples are sliced and coated with the juice, add the remaining apple filling ingredients and toss thoroughly with your hands to coat.

To assemble the tart crumble the completely cooled candied walnuts evenly along the bottom of the pastry shell. Top with an attractively arranged fan of the apples to neatly cover the nuts in a single layer. Bake at 375 degrees F for about 35 minutes, until bubbly and golden and the apples are soft and pliable to the touch. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Heat the apricot jelly water in a small bowl in the microwave on high for a few seconds until melted. Stir to combine. Gently brush the top of the tart and the tart boders with the glaze for a pretty finishing touch. This is best when served warm.

 

MASTER SWEET PASTRY DOUGH:

Makes two 9 inch tart crusts

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour (Holly recommends White Lily Flour)

1/4 cup sugar

Generous pinch of kosher or sea salt

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/4 inch cubes

About 3 Tablespoons of ice cold water, or just enough to hold the pastry together

Combine the dry ingredients in a food processor and pulse 10 – 12 times (you may also do this by hand with a pastry blender). Gently incorporate the butter. Holly describes this as “wrapping” the butter with tiny packages of flour to help the pastry rise as it bakes. The butter needs to be incorporated quickly. In the food processor this should take between 40 to 50 quick successive pulses. With a pastry blender it takes about the same number of times cutting the butter into the flour. The pastry should resemble a coarse sand or sea salt. Slowly add the water while pulsing or blending. Add just enough to get the pastry to just come together and form a ball (about 2 to 3 tablespoons). Turn the pastry out onto a lightly floured surface, and with your hands very quickly shape it into a 2 inch thick round disk. Wrap the pastry in cling wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight. The pastry can also be stored and frozen for 1 to 2 months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before using.

Thai Street Food – Prawns with Glass Noodles

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In the world of chefs and food lovers alike, the mere mention of the words Thai Food, bring one man to mind, Australian chef David Thompson. His love of Thai culture and cuisine is vibrantly reflected in his restaurants and cookbooks. His London restaurant Nahm, was the first Thai restaurant to gain the coveted Michelin Star. Both the food he cooks in his restaurants, and his cookbooks are as close to authentic as you can get, without actually going to Thailand. His first cookbook Thai Food, was a comprehensive guide to Thai Cooking and the role of food in Thai society.

David’s second book Thai Street Food compiles 100 of his favorite recipes from the streets of Thailand. I will not be the first to tell that this is more than just a cookbook. Yes the food is fabulous. David speaks of the food vividly, and has divided the sections not by dishes in particular, but by what is available in the streets by Morning, Noon, and Night, and he has not done this alone. With the stunning photography of Earl Carter, the book literally transports you to Thailand, as they explain how the markets open at dawn to provide service to the monks, who have come to collect their culinary alms, and how some cook or purchase gifts of food for them. Street food is a way of life in Thailand, and you can vividly imagine street vendors reaching out of the pages to hand something completely delicious for you to have, for whatever meal you are seeking.

The photos below are not copies (notice the crease), but my photographs of Earl’s enchanting photos within the pages of the book. He did a remarkable job of capturing the spirit of the people of Thailand and I couldn’t help but share some of his stunning photos here.

 Monks taking their morning meal

 The vibrant market at noon

Preaparations for  a morning meal

 Customers purchasing their daily food

Photos aside, this is about the food. The dish that I am sharing with you today, Prawns (Shrimp) with Glass Noodles,  is very similar to a dish I grew up with in Guam called Pancit, and it is relatively simple to make, and so delicious. Glass noodles are also known as bean thread and can be found in the Oriental section of your grocery store, or the average Asian Market. If you are not comfortable using back fat or cannot procure any, you can render a little bit of bacon fat instead, but please do not completely eliminate fat if you are going to make a substitution, it goes a long way to provide great flavor in this dish.

PRAWNS WITH GLASS NOODLES

 

 

Ingredients:

6 – 8 large raw prawns (shrimp)

150 grams (5 oz) dried glass noodles (bean thread)

50 grams (2 oz) pork back fat (fatback)

4 coriander roots, cleaned (cilantro root, may be found in most Asian Markets, or your own garden)

3 garlic cloves unpeeled

10 white peppercorns

1 cup light stock (store bought chicken stock is what I used)

2 Tablespoons Oyster Sauce (I found mine in the Oriental aisle at my local grocery store)

1 Tablespoon Light Soy Sauce

1 teaspoon white sugar

Ground white pepper and coriander leaves (cilantro) to garnish

 

Directions:

Peel and devein the shrimp leave but leave the tails attached. If you wish you may leave the heads on to impart a deeper flavor to the noodles, and add an interesting appearance to the dish (I removed them).

Soak the noodles in warm water for about 15 minutes, or until soft. Drain well and cut with scissor into manageable lengths – about 3 inches.

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Warm an oven proof pot in it  for about 10 minutes (this provides an even heat throughout the pot, if you are using a cast iron dutch oven as I did you may also just heat your pot on medium to low heat while covered but make sure you have a little bit of fat at the bottom of the pot).

Meanwhile cut the back fat into thin slices (about 1 ¼ in x ½ in)

Using a mortar and pestle or food processor, crush the coriander roots, garlic, and peppercorns together.

In a small pan heat the stock, and stir in the oyster and soy sauces, and the sugar.

Carefully take the pot out of the oven and place it over low heat . Carefully spread the back fat over the bottom of the pot. Place the noodles on top of the fat, then scatter over that the crushed coriander root, garlic and peppercorns. Pour the seasoned stock over the noodles and place the prawns on top. Stir to make sure everything is evenly distributed. Turn up the heat to high and quickly bring to a boil. Cover with a lid and place in your oven for about 10 minutes and then remove (this is done just to seal in the heat you do not need to turn your oven on again). The noodles
will have absorbed all the liquids and the prawn should have turned to a bright reddish color.

Garnish with white pepper and cilantro to serve.

Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Miette Bakery Book – Honey Tea Cake

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On my last trip to San Francisco I made my way to the Ferry Building to do some shopping, and have lunch with a group of friends. While wandering through the shops we discovered what is now one of my favorite bakeries in the country, Miette. Filled with charming cakes and cupcakes, elegant pastries, and wide array of crisp cookies and dainty confections, a visit to Miette can soften the hardest of hearts. We carefully chose our treats, and left Miette toting cute little boxes tied with ribbon. Miette is owned by Meg and Christopher Ray who first started the bakery in Berkeley, CA  at the Berkeley Farmer’s Market, prior to opening their first shop at the Ferry Building. They now own four shops in the San Francisco Bay area.

Miette is probably the most charming book I have ever owned. Literally. Written by Meg with Leslie Jonath, and beautifully photographed by Frankie Frankeny, this would make a great addition to any cookbook collection. Miette’s Tomboy Cake graces the cover, and the pages of the book have a lovely scalloped edge that immediately has you smiling, and wondering about the recipes that lie within.

Yes the book is pretty, but it is also filled with the wonderful recipes from the Miette Bakery. Meg does not spare attention to detail here.  All the recipes also include the techniques and instructions needed to achieve the same results that they have at the bakery, in your own kitchen. Meg’s instructions are very detailed, and with a few tools, the average home baker can produce the same treats that come from her shops.

I honestly kept changing my mind about which recipe I would share with you, because in all honesty I wanted to make them all. I was recently gifted with a jar of local honey, and thought that the Honey Tea Cake would be a great thing to make from it. I was right. The cake is rich and moist. Drizzled with the honey syrup at the end, it is a perfect afternoon tea cake.

 

 HONEY TEA CAKE

Ingredients:

2 2/3 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 large egg yolks

2 whole eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 cup plus 6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/4 cup honey, warmed and diluted with 2 Tablespoons of water to make a syrup

Directions:

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F

Liberally butter and flour four 5 x 3  or  two 8 x 4 inch pans. Tap out the excess flour and set aside.

Sift the flour, baking powder, into a bowl and set aside. In another bowl stir together the egg yolks, whole eggs, cream, and vanilla.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the dry ingredients and the sugar. Mix on medium speed for 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low, add the butter and half of the egg mixture, and beat until incorporated (about 2 minutes). Raise the speed to medium high and beat for 2 minutes to add air to build structure. Return the speed to low, add the remaining egg mixture. and beat until just incorporated (2 to 3 minutes longer).

Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans. Bake until the tops are a golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean 20 – 25 minutes for small loaves, and 35 – 40 minutes for the larger ones.

Transfer to wire racks and immediately brush the tops or drizzle with the honey syrup. Allow to cool in the pans for 20 minutes. Run an off set spatula or knife around the edges of the pans, invert the cakes onto the racks and allow to cool for another 20 minutes. Serve right away or wrap the cakes tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature until ready to serve. The cakes can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or you can also wrap it in a second layer of plastic wrap and store it in the freezer for up to 2 months. To thaw, leave in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours, or on the countertop for 1 to 2 hours. Serve at room temperature.

 

One Big Table & Thomas Jefferson’s Chicken Fricassee

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I received this bohemoth of a cook book as a birthday gift earlier this year, and I have been wanting to write about it for a while. It is massive at 864 pages, and contains 600 recipes from some of the country’s best home cooks, farmers, fishermen, pit masters, and chefs. A little more than 10 years ago, former New York Times editor Molly O’Neill, set out on a cross country trip to investigate reports that Americans had stopped cooking. She found quite the opposite. She travelled thousands of miles, meeting people from all walks of life, who helped her put that fear to rest. This book is almost an encyclopedia of America’s rich food heritage. There are recipes for the most traditional of American foods, as well as the ethnic foods of other lands, brought here by immigrants from around the world. The story of how each dish came into the hands of each contributor is told with reverence and respect. Throughout the book Molly weaves in the history of American food, and the various products, and equipment used throughout the years. This book is a great representation of how we cook in this country. If you are looking for a cook book that is truly diverse, then One Big Table is the book that you are looking for.

With the 4th July just barely in the past, I thought it would be fitting for me to share a recipe from one of our country’s favorite presidents, Thomas Jefferson. This recipe was contributed by Charles Insler of St. Louis, Missouri. Mr. Insler found this recipe while researching the food preferences of the American presidents. Fricassee is a traditional French technique for stews, using a gravy or a stock with white sauce. This recipe leans a bit towards the gravy side of the boat. The ingredients are fairly simple, but is a dish that does take a little bit of time to make. It is rich and delicious, and served on a bed of rice or egg noodles, it is perfect for a Sunday dinner.

 

THOMAS JEFFERSON’S CHICKEN FRICASSEE

 

 

Ingredients:

One 3 1/2 to 4 pound chicken cut into 8 pieces

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

Koser salt and freshly grated black pepper (to taste, I used a 1/2 teaspoon of each)

2 Tablespoons olive oil

2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup water

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 Tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

5 ounces white mushrooms, stemmed and halved

2 teaspoons minced fresh sage

1/2 cup half-and-half

1 Tablespoon sage, fresh chopped parsley

 

Directions:

1. Pat the chicken pieces dry and season with the nutmeg, paprika, salt, and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook for 8 to 10 minutes (turn chicken halfway through), until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Stir the flour into the fat remaining into the remaining in the skillet and cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes until lightly browned. Whisk in the water and wine, scraping up any of the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet.

3. Return the chicken to the skillet, bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 – 45 minutes on medium-low heat, until a thermometer registers 175 degrees F in the thighs and 165 degrees F in the breast (if you don’t have a thermometer, cook until the juices just run clear). Transfer the chicken to a serving platter or bowl and cover to keep warm. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh strainer into a large liquid measuring cup and set aside.

4. Wipe out the skillet with paper towels. Melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and mushrooms and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until the vegetables are lightly browned. Stir in the reserved sauce, half and half, and sage. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes, until slightly thickened. Pour the sauce over the chicken, garnish with the parsley, and serve.