Category Archives: Main Course

Thai Street Food – Prawns with Glass Noodles

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In the world of chefs and food lovers alike, the mere mention of the words Thai Food, bring one man to mind, Australian chef David Thompson. His love of Thai culture and cuisine is vibrantly reflected in his restaurants and cookbooks. His London restaurant Nahm, was the first Thai restaurant to gain the coveted Michelin Star. Both the food he cooks in his restaurants, and his cookbooks are as close to authentic as you can get, without actually going to Thailand. His first cookbook Thai Food, was a comprehensive guide to Thai Cooking and the role of food in Thai society.

David’s second book Thai Street Food compiles 100 of his favorite recipes from the streets of Thailand. I will not be the first to tell that this is more than just a cookbook. Yes the food is fabulous. David speaks of the food vividly, and has divided the sections not by dishes in particular, but by what is available in the streets by Morning, Noon, and Night, and he has not done this alone. With the stunning photography of Earl Carter, the book literally transports you to Thailand, as they explain how the markets open at dawn to provide service to the monks, who have come to collect their culinary alms, and how some cook or purchase gifts of food for them. Street food is a way of life in Thailand, and you can vividly imagine street vendors reaching out of the pages to hand something completely delicious for you to have, for whatever meal you are seeking.

The photos below are not copies (notice the crease), but my photographs of Earl’s enchanting photos within the pages of the book. He did a remarkable job of capturing the spirit of the people of Thailand and I couldn’t help but share some of his stunning photos here.

 Monks taking their morning meal

 The vibrant market at noon

Preaparations for  a morning meal

 Customers purchasing their daily food

Photos aside, this is about the food. The dish that I am sharing with you today, Prawns (Shrimp) with Glass Noodles,  is very similar to a dish I grew up with in Guam called Pancit, and it is relatively simple to make, and so delicious. Glass noodles are also known as bean thread and can be found in the Oriental section of your grocery store, or the average Asian Market. If you are not comfortable using back fat or cannot procure any, you can render a little bit of bacon fat instead, but please do not completely eliminate fat if you are going to make a substitution, it goes a long way to provide great flavor in this dish.

PRAWNS WITH GLASS NOODLES

 

 

Ingredients:

6 – 8 large raw prawns (shrimp)

150 grams (5 oz) dried glass noodles (bean thread)

50 grams (2 oz) pork back fat (fatback)

4 coriander roots, cleaned (cilantro root, may be found in most Asian Markets, or your own garden)

3 garlic cloves unpeeled

10 white peppercorns

1 cup light stock (store bought chicken stock is what I used)

2 Tablespoons Oyster Sauce (I found mine in the Oriental aisle at my local grocery store)

1 Tablespoon Light Soy Sauce

1 teaspoon white sugar

Ground white pepper and coriander leaves (cilantro) to garnish

 

Directions:

Peel and devein the shrimp leave but leave the tails attached. If you wish you may leave the heads on to impart a deeper flavor to the noodles, and add an interesting appearance to the dish (I removed them).

Soak the noodles in warm water for about 15 minutes, or until soft. Drain well and cut with scissor into manageable lengths – about 3 inches.

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Warm an oven proof pot in it  for about 10 minutes (this provides an even heat throughout the pot, if you are using a cast iron dutch oven as I did you may also just heat your pot on medium to low heat while covered but make sure you have a little bit of fat at the bottom of the pot).

Meanwhile cut the back fat into thin slices (about 1 ¼ in x ½ in)

Using a mortar and pestle or food processor, crush the coriander roots, garlic, and peppercorns together.

In a small pan heat the stock, and stir in the oyster and soy sauces, and the sugar.

Carefully take the pot out of the oven and place it over low heat . Carefully spread the back fat over the bottom of the pot. Place the noodles on top of the fat, then scatter over that the crushed coriander root, garlic and peppercorns. Pour the seasoned stock over the noodles and place the prawns on top. Stir to make sure everything is evenly distributed. Turn up the heat to high and quickly bring to a boil. Cover with a lid and place in your oven for about 10 minutes and then remove (this is done just to seal in the heat you do not need to turn your oven on again). The noodles
will have absorbed all the liquids and the prawn should have turned to a bright reddish color.

Garnish with white pepper and cilantro to serve.

Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One Big Table & Thomas Jefferson’s Chicken Fricassee

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I received this bohemoth of a cook book as a birthday gift earlier this year, and I have been wanting to write about it for a while. It is massive at 864 pages, and contains 600 recipes from some of the country’s best home cooks, farmers, fishermen, pit masters, and chefs. A little more than 10 years ago, former New York Times editor Molly O’Neill, set out on a cross country trip to investigate reports that Americans had stopped cooking. She found quite the opposite. She travelled thousands of miles, meeting people from all walks of life, who helped her put that fear to rest. This book is almost an encyclopedia of America’s rich food heritage. There are recipes for the most traditional of American foods, as well as the ethnic foods of other lands, brought here by immigrants from around the world. The story of how each dish came into the hands of each contributor is told with reverence and respect. Throughout the book Molly weaves in the history of American food, and the various products, and equipment used throughout the years. This book is a great representation of how we cook in this country. If you are looking for a cook book that is truly diverse, then One Big Table is the book that you are looking for.

With the 4th July just barely in the past, I thought it would be fitting for me to share a recipe from one of our country’s favorite presidents, Thomas Jefferson. This recipe was contributed by Charles Insler of St. Louis, Missouri. Mr. Insler found this recipe while researching the food preferences of the American presidents. Fricassee is a traditional French technique for stews, using a gravy or a stock with white sauce. This recipe leans a bit towards the gravy side of the boat. The ingredients are fairly simple, but is a dish that does take a little bit of time to make. It is rich and delicious, and served on a bed of rice or egg noodles, it is perfect for a Sunday dinner.

 

THOMAS JEFFERSON’S CHICKEN FRICASSEE

 

 

Ingredients:

One 3 1/2 to 4 pound chicken cut into 8 pieces

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

Koser salt and freshly grated black pepper (to taste, I used a 1/2 teaspoon of each)

2 Tablespoons olive oil

2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup water

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 Tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

5 ounces white mushrooms, stemmed and halved

2 teaspoons minced fresh sage

1/2 cup half-and-half

1 Tablespoon sage, fresh chopped parsley

 

Directions:

1. Pat the chicken pieces dry and season with the nutmeg, paprika, salt, and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook for 8 to 10 minutes (turn chicken halfway through), until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Stir the flour into the fat remaining into the remaining in the skillet and cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes until lightly browned. Whisk in the water and wine, scraping up any of the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet.

3. Return the chicken to the skillet, bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 – 45 minutes on medium-low heat, until a thermometer registers 175 degrees F in the thighs and 165 degrees F in the breast (if you don’t have a thermometer, cook until the juices just run clear). Transfer the chicken to a serving platter or bowl and cover to keep warm. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh strainer into a large liquid measuring cup and set aside.

4. Wipe out the skillet with paper towels. Melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and mushrooms and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until the vegetables are lightly browned. Stir in the reserved sauce, half and half, and sage. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes, until slightly thickened. Pour the sauce over the chicken, garnish with the parsley, and serve.

Spring Cookbooks & Lemon & Herb Roasted Chicken

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New releases in cookbooks are as seasonal as the food and recipes within them. Most cookbooks slated for a spring release come out in the months of April and May, and share the foods that celebrate spring, or the newest trends in food. There are several books headed my way that I can’t wait to share with you as well as one mammoth one that has been added to my personal wish list.

As I think about a few of the books that I have coming, I am reminded that food can be as trendy as fashion. Not a bad thing really, it keeps ideas in food fresh and moving.

The last couple of years we’ve seen cupcakes lead the way, but macarons and pie have stepped in to fill that spot. I have already written about  macarons here and more and more people are taking it upon themselves to either make them, or find a pastry shop that carries them. 

Old fashioned comfort food is now again fashionable, and people are once again embracing that pastry we all love called pie. I recently traveled to Seattle specifically to take the lovely Kate McDermott’s  Art of the Pie class, where I learned to bake the best the pies I have ever made. Martha Stewart is coming out with a new book called Martha Stewart’s New Pies and Tarts (which I will review in a future post on this site) , and pie shops are popping up all across the country.

Many have picked up the practice of doing one meatless day a week. I usually do a Meatless Monday. Heidi Swanson of 101 Cookbooks came out with a new book I just received called called Supernatural Everyday and I will be reviewing that here soon as well.

The book that ended up on my personal wish list is one that I personnaly can’t afford at this time. Nathan Myhrvold a former Microsoft Executive personally took it upon himself and a team of chefs, photographers, to create a 6 volume set of books called Modernist Cuisine. At 2437 pages this incredible set of books weighs in at a whopping 47 pounds. It is full of cooking techniques, tips, incredible food photography, and almost every chef and foodie I know would love to get there hands on this incredible series.  The retail price for this set? $625 this foodie will have to wait until it is sold volume by volume.

I do have a really great recipe to share with you today. A very simple Lemon & Herb Roasted Chicken. I make this at least once a week. It is so simple to prepare and delicious.

LEMON & HERB ROASTED CHICKEN

 

Ingredients:

1 Whole Chicken - 3 1/2 pounds (preferably free range)

For the marinade

Garlic – 4 cloves minced

Rosemary – 1 tsp fresh (1/2 tsp if using dried)

Thyme – 1/2 tsp fresh (1/4 tsp if using dried)

Olive oil – 1/4 cup

The juice of 1 lemon

Salt – 1/2 teaspoon

Freshly ground black pepper – 1/2 teaspoon

Directions:

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F. Spatchcock the chicken by removing the backbone with poultry shears or heavy duty kitchen scissors. Trim any excess fat from the around the backside, legs and neck. This will allow you to roast your chicken with the cavity open and cut your roasting time down.

Mix all the ingredients for the marinade together in a small bowl and set aside. Place the chicken in a ziplock bag, or food safe vacuum sealable pouch. Pour the marinade over the chicken and seal. Rub the marinade into the chicken and set aside. Allow to marinade for 15-30 minutes. 

 

Place the chicken in a roasting pan lined with foil with the cavity of the chicken facing down. The wings under and pul the legs out so the thighs are comfortably resting against the breast and the tips of the legs are pointing out. Cover lightly with foil and roast at 375 degrees F for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and turn the heat up to 400 degrees F roast uncovered for 15 – 20 minutes until the chicken has browned and reached an internal temperature of 160 degrees F.

Around My French Table – Salmon with Basil Tapenade

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 There are many food writers that I admire, but few come close to commanding the respect that I have for Dorie Greenspan. She has authored a multitude of cookbooks, written many magazine articles, and has won James Beard Awards for Baking From My Home to Yours, and Baking with Julia (based on the PBS series hosted by Julia Child).

Dorie is one of a handful of food writers who helped open the doors of French cooking to me. For a while I participated in a group that baked it’s way through Baking From My Home to Yours, and I am considering joining a group that is planning on cooking their way through Around My French Table.

I was thrilled to find out that Oklahoma City was on the schedule for Dorie’s book tour. I along with a few girlfriends, attended a booksigning and tasting event in Dorie’s honor at The Tasting Room in Oklahoma City, hosted by Chef Kurt Fleischfresser. We had a fantastic Girls Night Out. filled with delicious food and wine, but the best part of the evening was being able to meet and spend time with Dorie, who was just so personable and a joy to be around. That is Dorie in the center of the photo, flanked by myself and my friends, Nichole, Molly and Katie.

 

 

Chef David Henry prepared so many wonderful dishes that evening, but this was my favorite and I thought I would share it with you.

 

SALMON WITH BASIL TAPENADE

 

Ingredients:

1/4 cup Black Olive Tapenade (recipe to follow or you may use store bought)

1/4 cup minced basil and/or mint

the zest and juice of 1 lemon

4 5oz salmon fillets (skin on and cut from the center portion)

Salt (to taste)

1/3 cup olive oil

 

Directions:

Center a rack in the oven and pre-heat to 450 degrees F. Pull out an oven proof skillet large enough to hold all 4 pieces of Salmon and set it aside.

In a small bowl stir together the tapenade, 2 tablespoons of the herbs, and half of the lemon zest and juice. Season with black pepper and taste. You may not need to add salt as the tapenade is salty. Spoon out a geneous tablespoon of the tapenade mix and set it aside for the sauce. Place the remaining tapenade in a zip lock bag, seal the bag and snip off a small corner of the bag. The tapenade mixture can be made up to 2 days in advance.

Cut two small pockets in each fillet that run paralel to the skin to fill with tapenade. The easiest way to do this is to lay the fillets skin side down on a cutting board, and using a paring knife cut 2 slits through the fish about 1 long, on either side of the center of the fillet. Squeeze a little of the tapenade into each pocket, “massaging” the salmon if necessary so that the tapenade fills the pockets evenly without squirting out of the sides. Season the fillets lightly with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in the skillet over high heat. When it’s hot, slip the fish into the pan, top side down, and cook for 2 minutes, then turn the fillets over and cook for 2 more minutes. This will give the fish a nice color. Slide the skillet into the oven and roast the fillets for 6 minutes, at which point they should be slightly jiggly in the center. Set the skillet down on a heat proof surface, cover with foil and let it rest for 5 minutes.

For the sauce, stir 3 to 4 tablespoons of olive oil into the reserved tapenade (it will look like a thin vinaigrette with specks of olive). Season to taste with more lemon zest and juice, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of herbs, and finish with salt and pepper.

Serve the salmon with the sauce spooned over it.

 

Black Olive Tapenade

 

Ingredients:

1/4 pound pitted oil cured olives (about 1/2 a cup), chopped

1 anchovy drained

the zest and juice of 1/4 lemon

a pinch of rosemary (fresh or dried)

a pinch of thyme (fresh or dried)

piment d’Espelette or cayenne to taste

1 Tablespoon of olive oil (approximate)

 

Directions:

 

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor (a mini would be perfect for this), or a blender and process, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until the olives are pureed. The consistency (smooth or chunky) is up to you. If you would like it a little thinner, add a little olive oil drop by drop as you process. Taste and a little more of the herbs, spice, or lemon juice if you want them.

 

 

In the KITCHEN with A GOOD APPETITE

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I love Melissa Clark‘s books. Melissa is a well seasoned writer with 29 books to her credit, many of those written in collaboration with some of the top chefs and food personalities in the country. She also  currently writes my favorite weekly column in the New York Times  called A Good Appetite.

Her new book In the Kitchen with A Good Appetite is full of wonderful recipes, and the stories revolving around their creation. The recipes in this book are simple, delicious and definitely fall into the realm of comfort foods. I do have to admit, this book won me over with the section dedicated to “Better Fried” food. I love anything fried and it shows :)

Border’s Media produced a couple of great cooking videos  that you can view here. One of those videos is for the recipe that follows.

I chose to share the Roasted Chicken Thighs with Apples, Gin, and Coriander Seeds. It is one of those dishes that takes just a small amount of time to prep, and takes only minutes to finish in the oven. It is fragrant and delicious.

Roasted Chicken Thighs with Apples, Gin, and Coriander Seeds:

Recipe printed by permission of Melissa Clark

Ingredients:

1 large or 2 small apples

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch strips

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon white vermouth

1 1/2 teaspoons gin

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, dill, or parsley

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Crust bread or rice for serving

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Core the apples and slice them as thinly as you can (somewhere between 1/8 & 1/4 inches if fine)

2. In a 9 x 13 inch pan toss in all the ingredients except 1 tablespoon cilantro (or dill or parsley). Spread the ingredients out into one layer in the pan. Roast until the chicken is cooked through and the apples have softened,  about 20 minutes. Garnish with the remaining cilantro, dill or parsley. The sauce will be thin, so serve with crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or over rice