Soups & Stews |

I received this bohemoth of a cook book as a birthday gift earlier this year, and I have been wanting to write about it for a while. It is massive at 864 pages, and contains 600 recipes from some of the country’s best home cooks, farmers, fishermen, pit masters, and chefs. A little more than 10 years ago, former New York Times editor Molly O’Neill, set out on a cross country trip to investigate reports that Americans had stopped cooking. She found quite the opposite. She travelled thousands of miles, meeting people from all walks of life, who helped her put that fear to rest. This book is almost an encyclopedia of America’s rich food heritage. There are recipes for the most traditional of American foods, as well as the ethnic foods of other lands, brought here by immigrants from around the world. The story of how each dish came into the hands of each contributor is told with reverence and respect. Throughout the book Molly weaves in the history of American food, and the various products, and equipment used throughout the years. This book is a great representation of how we cook in this country. If you are looking for a cook book that is truly diverse, then One Big Table is the book that you are looking for.

With the 4th July just barely in the past, I thought it would be fitting for me to share a recipe from one of our country’s favorite presidents, Thomas Jefferson. This recipe was contributed by Charles Insler of St. Louis, Missouri. Mr. Insler found this recipe while researching the food preferences of the American presidents. Fricassee is a traditional French technique for stews, using a gravy or a stock with white sauce. This recipe leans a bit towards the gravy side of the boat. The ingredients are fairly simple, but is a dish that does take a little bit of time to make. It is rich and delicious, and served on a bed of rice or egg noodles, it is perfect for a Sunday dinner.

THOMAS JEFFERSON’S CHICKEN FRICASSEE

Ingredients:

One 3 1/2 to 4 pound chicken cut into 8 pieces

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

Koser salt and freshly grated black pepper (to taste, I used a 1/2 teaspoon of each)

2 Tablespoons olive oil

2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup water

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 Tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

5 ounces white mushrooms, stemmed and halved

2 teaspoons minced fresh sage

1/2 cup half-and-half

1 Tablespoon sage, fresh chopped parsley

Directions:

1. Pat the chicken pieces dry and season with the nutmeg, paprika, salt, and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook for 8 to 10 minutes (turn chicken halfway through), until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Stir the flour into the fat remaining into the remaining in the skillet and cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes until lightly browned. Whisk in the water and wine, scraping up any of the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet.

3. Return the chicken to the skillet, bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 – 45 minutes on medium-low heat, until a thermometer registers 175 degrees F in the thighs and 165 degrees F in the breast (if you don’t have a thermometer, cook until the juices just run clear). Transfer the chicken to a serving platter or bowl and cover to keep warm. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh strainer into a large liquid measuring cup and set aside.

4. Wipe out the skillet with paper towels. Melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and mushrooms and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until the vegetables are lightly browned. Stir in the reserved sauce, half and half, and sage. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes, until slightly thickened. Pour the sauce over the chicken, garnish with the parsley, and serve.

I remember first hearing about David Leite’s Book The New Portuguese Table a little over a year ago. When I first heard about it, I could not wait to get a copy. For years I have been fascinated with the food of Portugal, Madeira, and the Azores. I had a friend named Pam in Jr. High, whose family was in the military and they were Portuguese. Pam introduced me to a spicy dipping sauce called Piri Piri, which we would dip everything into. Guam has it’s own version of this sauce called Finadene, and between the two of us we would usually have one or the other with our lunches. I do not know where Pam is today, or even remember her last name, but I remember that sauce as my first experience with Portuguese cuisine.

David’s book is a wonderful representation of Portugal’s culture. He literally introduces you to the regions of this wonderful country, and graciously tells you what to eat and drink while you are there. He even has a lovely primer on port wine within these pages.

The recipe that really grabbed my attention in this book was not the Piri Piri Sauce, although there is a really great recipe for that too, but a lovely Chilled Fava Bean Soup with Apples. I love the savory and sweet combination, and although the soup is chilled, it is very hearty.

Chilled Fava Bean Soup with Apples

Ingredients:

3 1/2 pounds fresh fava beans shelled (you may also use 1 1/2 pounds frozen favas peeled, or 1 pound frozen baby lima beans .

3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

1 medium yukon gold potato, peeled and diced

6 cups prepared chicken stock, or low sodium broth

Kosher salt and white pepper (I used freshly cracked black pepper)

1 shallot halved, cut through the root end, and sliced into half moons

1/2 a medium sized granny smith apple cored and cut into thin half moons

If you are using fresh fava beans (skip to the next step if you aren’t) , bring a large stock pot to a boil and blanch the favas for one minute. Shock them in ice cold water. With a small pairing knife, score the beans and remove the hulls.

In a large heavy pot, heat the oil until it just starts to simmer. Add the onions and saute over medium heat until softened (approximately 7 min). Add the diced potato and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Add the prepared stock, and bring to a boil. Continue to cook for another 5 minutes, or until the potatoes have softened. Add the prepared favas (reserve about 18 small beans for the garnish). Bring to a boil, and continue to cook for an additional 5 minutes or until the beans are tender.

Prepare an ice bath with a bowl big enough to comfortably nestle inside of it. Set aside. With a stick blender (you may also use a regular blender or food processor, in small batches) puree the soup. Pass the soup through a fine mesh sieve, and into the bowl meant to nestle in the ice bath. Place the bowl in the ice bath, stirring occasionally until the soup is cooled. Chill the soup in the refrigerator for at least one hour or overnight.

Season the chilled soup with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the butter, add the shallot and cook until until the edges start to brown and set that aside to cool.

Pour the soup into bowls and garnish immediately with apple slices and the prepared shallot and serve.

Category Archives: Soups & Stews

One Big Table & Thomas Jefferson’s Chicken Fricassee

The New Portuguese Table – Chilled Fava Bean Soup with Apples